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TRAVEL
122
Jun-Jul15
T
aiwan is one of our closest neighbours,
and with dozens of flights there from
Hong Kong every day, each one
taking less than 90 minutes, I’m a bit
embarrassed to admit that I’d never visited the
place. I rectified that recently with a tour run by
Country Holidays
, and this island nation won
me over pretty quickly.
My tour started in Taipei, and from there we
drove three and half hours south to Hualien – the
gateway to Taroko National Park. The scenery
along this stretch of coast is stunning, the road
rising higher and higher above the Pacific Ocean.
There are countless spots to stop for photos
along the way, including Qingshui Cliffs, but on
the day of my trip south we saw nothing but fog
and kept driving till we reached Taroko Gorge.
A Gorgeous Gorge
Taroko Gorge runs for 19km through Taroko
National Park. It’s an incredibly popular spot
with tourists, mainly for its spectacular natural
scenery, but also for the easy hiking trails dotted
along the gorge. Some of the more challenging
hikes require a permit and a certain level of
fitness. For those not in possession of either, it
is possible to have a driver or taxi take you to the
start of each trail, and either meet you somewhere
along the way, or at the end. A number of spots
are simply worth stopping for a look at the
stunning rock formations and waterfalls. There’s
an interesting history to the area and it would be
worth travelling with a guide to learn more about
how some of the hiking trails came to be.
We trekked the Shakadang Trail, a 4.5km trail
carved out of the cliffs by hand by local Aborigines
in the time of Japanese occupation. It’s a flat trail
and easy enough for all levels of hiker. The water
running through the Shakadang River below is
crystal clear and a stunning blue-green colour, and
this trail allows you to get up close and personal
with the amazing rock formations and sub-tropical
plants that line the gorge.
Swallows Grotto is another easy trail, and
equally breathtaking – it includes caves, so hard
hats are recommended (they can be borrowed at
the entrance). The trail follows a narrow passage
of marble and limestone, with vertical walls either
side. Over millions of years as the cliffs formed,
tiny holes were created in these walls and they’re
now home to thousands of swallows, which
swoop and call out as they fly through the gorge.
It’s a beautiful spot but sadly its proximity to the
highway – not to mention the sheer number of
tourists – has driven many of the birds away.
After a day of hiking and driving (followed by more hiking and driving),
Silks Place Taroko is a very welcome sight. This five-star hotel offers just
about everything a weary traveller could ask for. Fully refurbished in 2010,
Silks is a bit of an oasis – it seems to appear out of nowhere, right beside
the gorge, and the rooms on that side have full-length windows where
you can sit and watch the water stream past, or the birds and butterflies
catching the breeze. When the mist descends in the evening, the effect
is atmospheric and tranquil.
The hotel’s Wellspring Spa, also with windows overlooking the gorge,
offers a selection of massages, perfect after a day’s hiking. Unfortunately,
it was fully booked on the night of my stay, so I settled for a bath in spring
water with natural salts, provided in every room. I followed this with an
incredibly relaxing sleep in the biggest bed I’ve ever seen.
Another highlight of the hotel are its pools, including a heated indoor
pool, with a separate kiddies’ area, and an outdoor rooftop pool, with
four individual Jacuzzis. The Jacuzzis are a great place to kick-start the
day, watching the swallows, and warming up before heading further up
the mountain range.
Shakadang Trail